Music and Markets - - Following the Music

Florence Favorites

…These are a few of my favorite things
Florence brings the Sound of Music lyrics to mind: it’s stuffed full of many of our favorite things, and we love sharing them with Music and Markets guests. We‘ve talked with Jill about what she has seen before, and what she would enjoy seeing and experiencing this time, and ordered our day accordingly.
Each trip is carefully planned to ensure (as much as possible in Italy!) that we don’t miss a sight because it’s closing day, and we begin our exploration of off-the-beaten path delights with Ghirlandaio’s glorious cenacolo (Last Supper) in the vaulted refectory of the Ognissanti church. A superb example of his exquisitely detailed work , its lush colors, delicate flowers and birds, and the grace of the figures make it a work of art that charms me for many a long, lingering visit as I sit in a chair, perfectly placed for contemplation in front of the fresco. I almost feel as if I’m a guest at the table, and can hear the twitter of birdsong in the garden scene. This depiction is said to have been the inspiration for da Vinci’s famous Last Supper in Milan.
Pietra serena (the pale blue-gray stone utilized architecturally throughout Florence) lavabos, used by the monks to wash before eating, and a pulpit carved into the wall, where a brother read to the assembly as they ate, provide a feel of monastery life in the peaceful room in this less-discovered spot.
In the small refectory of San Marco is another lovely Ghirlandaio portrayal of the familiar scene, part of the museo di San Marco, best known for its’ monks cells individually frescoed by the remarkable Fra Angelico…we walk along the quiet halls, absorbing the details of intimate frescoes inside the small rooms.
And any Music and Markets day worth its name HAS to stop at a market! Surrounded by outdoor stalls stuffed with leather goods, Florentine papers, and David aprons, Florence’s temple to the tastebud, the majestic Mercato Centrale, holds a treasure house of goodies. The nineteenth century cast-iron building is one of the largest covered markets in Europe. Each time we’re in Florence, we stop by welcoming Giovanni Benevieri’s stall, near the back entry to the Mercato, to stock up on nutty golden Parmeggiano Reggiano. He vacuum-packs chunks for us, and we bring them home and savor the flavor ‘til our next trip.
Another don’t-miss stop in the Mercato is the Conti family’s stall, glistening with an array of jewel-like candied fruits, marmalades, vats, and jars. Judy Witt, of Divina Cucina in Florence, introduced us to their truffled salt during a marvelous day-long cooking class last winter. The salt, infused with truffle flakes (just open the jar and be blown away!), carries a more authentic and lasting flavor than the often-artificially-flavored truffle oils on the market.
We get in just before closing for lunch at Teatro del Sale, a private club (membership costs five euros) which is Fabio Picchi’s (of the Cibreo “empire”) latest brainstorm. Everything is served buffet style, with food coming out in waves, announced with loud yells from the kitchen. Fabio doesn't serve the more expensive dishes from Cibreo, but uses seasonal market selections with skill. One of the privileges of membership is observing Fabio and his crew at work in an open kitchen, which includes a wood-burning oven and hearth with a spit roaster. A really enjoyable place for all seasons – whether in the open and airy theater space for a market-fresh summer lunch, or cozy on a cushy leather sofa in a paneled gentleman’s-club-like room for a warming winter meal. And I can always count on Fabio’s amazing melt-in-your-mouth flourless chocolate cake for dessert – yum!
On our way to Piazza Santa Croce to check out the latest deals at our favorite gold shop, the Gold Corner, we stop by Lastrucci Pietra Dura, where the welcoming owners gladly show off their latest masterpieces, crafted of tiny shards of semiprecious stones, such as vivid blue lapis lazuli and deep green malachite. It’s a pleasure to watch them lovingly creating such beautiful pieces of art.
Crossing the Ponte Vecchio, we are delighted to spot an old family friend whom we haven’t seen in years, and stop to chat – what fun, to serendipitously bump into a Washington DC local in Florence!
We love the Oltrarno, and usually stay on this more bohemian, craftsman-filled side of the river when we rent an apartment in Florence. We pop into Santa Felicita to see Pontormos’ vivid Deposition – the bright pastel pinks, blues and greens of the emotionally charged oval surround pale faces - gripping in their intensity.
We stroll down the Arno towards the next bridge, passing favorite fountains and corner art on the way – keep your eyes open on the art-filled streets for serendipitous discoveries.
Across the Santa Trinita bridge, the Santa Trinita church holds another Ghirlandaio gem – the jewel-toned nativity scene in the front right chapel. Again, a spot to sit and ponder beauty.We finish the day with a dinner in the fun atmosphere of Pazzi (on the corner of Via dei Lavatoi and Via Verdi). Paolo, the owner, isn’t in tonight, but the host and servers fill in with a few cheery songs and jokes, following his example, as they serve our tasty meal of typical Tuscan favorites. Paolo’s gnocchi a la gorgonzola has been our benchmark for the dish for quite a few years. I can still remember those meltingly delicious pillows blanketed in creamy sauce.

posted by Anne and Kirk @ 12:23 PM 0 comments