Escape to Lake Como
Wedneday, August 23, 2011
Lake Como, Italy
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We'd love to hear from you! Next on the itinerary: Art Cities of Northern Italy (add on a few days in the lakes for yourself!)
In a surprisingly short time you can be far from the bustle of Milan and deep in the beautiful countryside.
On the train to Varenna, on the eastern shore of Lake Como, we feel the air cooling as we head north into the mountains.
It's just too beautiful to sit down - we stand gaze out the window, soaking in the views and refreshing air.
We've arranged to meet a work friend of Kirk's in Varenna, and as we descend from the train station into town, we see Jim and Sigi, just off the ferry from Menaggio across the lake - perfect timing!
It's their first visit to Varenna, so we show them some of our favorite sights (we
spent a few nights here on our last visit ),
choosing the lovely terrace of
Hotel du Lac for lunch.
The meal is terrific... beginning with our favorite Italian aperitif, bright orange Spritzes, and yes, the food is as delicious as it looks!
The conversation is even better -
none of us are in a hurry to leave this inviting spot, and we've enjoyed chatting so much that we plan a get together back in Virginia... already planning to reminisce about THIS lake on a stroll to Lake Anne in Reston.
What a perfect room that balconied one (below the terrace) over the lake would be - can you imagine listening to the lapping water as you drift to sleep? Luscious!
Varenna's claim to fame is its romantic lakeside walk from the village to the ferry stop... winding pathways cantilevered over the water.
We take the slow route back to Milan, pulling away from colorful Varenna
joining the ferries criss-crossing the sparkling water.
Bellagio beckons - the first place we stayed on Lake Como many years ago.
The west-facing porticoes are shaded with long drapes, protecting shoppers from the heat of the sun.
Climbing up, up, up the steep cobbled paths, we peek down the colorful stepped lanes towards the water.
Last stop, Como, with it's pinnacle - topped church.
Kirk finds his favorite Illy bar and shows the friendly barista the card he's carried in his wallet since our last time here.
After that filling lunch at Hotel du Lac, a spread of aperitivi at Riva by the lake will do us for dinner. Northern Italy is generous with their cocktail nibbles... here there are chunks of Parmiggiano, slices of ham and melon, cuplets of grapes, walnuts, and cheese, savory tarts and slices of pizza...
Then it's time to catch the train back to Milan... "
sempre diritto" ( always straight) and past the hands "like this" are the directions we're given, as the waitress spreads her hand wide.
Since our very first visit, Lake Como has been a spot that relaxes and refreshes, and it's done so once again.We breathe deep of the fresh air and wave goodbye.
Milan - Hot Day in the City
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Milan, Italy
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We'd love to hear from you! Next on the itinerary: Art Cities of Norther
n Italy
Getting an early start to avoid the worst of the scalding heat, we head for the Brera, Milan's fine art gallery.
Napoleon proudly reigns over the interior courtyard.
From the gallery, it's not far to the massive Sforza castle. The dynasty ruled Milan for nearly a century, beginning in the 1400's, and commissioned Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper.
Cross the moat, enter the gate,
and you're in - the fortifications are now home to several museums.
A quick metro ride, and we ascend to this view - Milan's fantastical Duomo. Almost doesn't look real, does it?
Where else can we stay cool? The shops! Zara for children - oh boy! I find several cute things for grandaughter Ivy Mae. Can't wait to see Josh and family - soon we hope!
From cool Amsterdam to blazing hot Milan
Monday, August 22, 2011
Amsterdam
Interested in a Mu
sic and Markets Tour? We'd love to hear from you! Next on the itinerary: Art Cities of Northern Italy
A stroll through nearby Vondelpark, with gracious homes backing onto a lake, begins our Monday.
We pass ubiquitous bikers on their way to work - what a lovely commute!
A much more refreshing start to a workday than a traffic jam on the Capital Beltway, isn't it?! On the tram yesterday I overheard a lady making plans with friends to "meet at the Vondelpark and watch the sunset". Yes, the park is beautiful and well-used at all hours of the day.
Crossing a pretty bridge,
walking through a fragrant garden of multi-hued blooms,
we're taking time to smell the roses before our flight to Milan.
The heat hits last a blast furnace when we step off the plane, and we'll find ourselve
s spending much more time in our very cool hotel room than we usually do.
We wait til dusk falls (and the temp descends to around 90 rather than 100) to make our way to the Navigli district, crisscrossed with canals according to Leonardo da Vinci's plans from the 1400's.
Le Vigne, a Slow Food restaurant, its walls lined with wine bottles
is a keeper - with traditional ingredients used in innovative ways, such as this pasta with shrimp and zucchini flowers.
We make sure to leave room for dessert, and share a coconut mousse in a chocolate basket, thanking the owner for the complimentary glasses of
moscato, a sweet dessert wine actually from France.
A Musical Sunday in Amsterdam
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Amsterdam
Interested in a Music and Mark
ets Tour? We'd love to hear from you! Next on the itinerary: Art Cities of Northern Italy
A walk along gracefully curving canals takes us past floating homes
seaworthy boats - we try to figure out how the tall-masted one would get through the miniscule bridges
and unique decor - these dwellers must be wine-lovers!
Who knew there was a gondolier - a FEMALE gondolier, yet - in Amsterdam?!
The closing concert used to be on the Prinsen- gracht canal, but is now in front of the new Grachten- festival headquarters. Not at all as crowded as yesterday's concert on the Prinsengracht - I think it'll take a while for people to get used to the new headquarters.
We're glad not to have missed this fun concert... with
brass players from the Concertgebouw filling the air with Gershwin and more.
Neighbors hang out of the windows to hear the talented performers.
This may be the official closing event, but we've got one more special concert to fit in... a comic operetta, Pimpione, in the garden of the
Museum Van Loon.
The tale begins with a calm conversation between a servant girl, Vesp
etta, and her master, Pimpione
and as we relax in the lovely garden
the body language alone tells the story of conflict, as the wily
femme seduces her master into marriage, and then makes his life hell. An enjoyable finale for us, and a prime example of the outstanding talent and glorious venues that make the
Grachtenfestival such a marvel
ous festival.
We're invited to sip a post-concert champagne in the garden,
and then visit the beautiful mansion, built in the 1600's by the Van Loon family. The descendants share the magnificent property with the public, hosting musicales in the garden as they did this evening, and opening the home for tours 6 days a week.
From the dining room, window-side table set for dinner guests,
to the sumptuous bedrooms, it's a fascinating glimpse into the life of a wealthy merchant's family in the Golden Age of Dutch trading.
Even the kitchen retains the centuries- old accoutrements, a deep sink with a monogrammed bucket, shiny copper pots and pans, and blue and white Delft tiles paneling the walls.
Admiring the sunset on the canals, we fit in one more don't -miss Amsterdam meal, an Indonesian rijstaffel (rice table... an array of delicious morsels comes with the rice) at
Kantjil & de Tijger to complete the day.
City and Country in Amsterdam
Saturday, August 20, 2011,
part 2
Amsterdam
Inte
rested in a Music and Markets Tour? We'd love to hear from you! Next on the itinerary: Art Cities of Northern Italy
Sated with music, now we've got lunch on our mind - there's a floating lunch terrace across the canal - intriguing!
But we're on our way to one of our don't - miss Amsterdam faves
, The Pancake Bakery.
Kirk tries something new,
but I stick to my old favorite, their apple- bacon pancake, and drizzle it with
stroop(a thick caramel/molasses syrup) from a bucket. Predictably delicious!
Back to the hotel for a bit - to get on the balcony of our very compact room you have to climb out the window behind the bed!
How about getting out of the city for a change? It's easy as a ferry ride... we walk through the train station and join the bikers on the free ferry.
Just over the busy waterway, beyond a few apartment buildings and business towers, we find idyllic countryside: tiny cottages,
chickens pecking in the yard
blooms galore in a garden.
Back across the water, it's time to walk to another concert, and as always, there are surprises as we go... here, a Heineken keg- boat trolling a canal.
The J.O.N.G. ensemble presents a Spanish dance themed program in the courtyard of the Platanenhof, a former orphanage with sections dating to the 1500's.
The well and lantern served an important purpose centuries ago, but are
just decorative now. The name comes from the plane trees that circle the inner courtyard.
We paid for our tickets, but the residents can listen for free, and are seated at benches, sharing aperitifs on a picnic table, or in the windows, as this man and his little daughter are.
The concert ends with an all- castanet piece, as the composer smiles in the audience, content with this performance of his latest piece.
We're not too far from the Norderkirk, beside which is Café Winkel and another Amsterdam treat - apple cake! We're making the rounds of our don't miss favorites today!
